Housing & Equipment

• It is not within the scope of this material to provide engineering information on building construction. A logical approach is to visit existing facilities in climates similar to your own and gather information on what works best. Naturally, the type of housing depends on climate. Before construction, check zoning laws, electricity and water sources and truck accesses. Site selection is important. Select a site with good drainage, sufficient space for isolation and freedom from excessive winds. Remember, the structure must protect the rabbits against predators and excessive temperature changes.
  
  CAGES
  Modern caging is one of the major breakthroughs in rabbit raising.
  
  Traditional cage sizes for intermediate breeds are 30 inches by 30 inches for does and 24 inches by 30 inches for bucks. Compact breeds will require cages 1/3 smaller and dwarf breeds about half the size. Giant breeds require cages to be 24 inches high rather than the standard 18 inches. These cages are based on leaving litters with does until eight weeks of age and having food and water containers inside the cage unlike current practice. Many breeders wean as young as 28 days and use outside feeders and water bottles, thereby reducing the cage space requirement. The all-wire cages should be suspended from the ceiling with wires or chains, making entry difficult for pests. For outside cages, wooden frames may be made of 2 by 4’s into which the cages may be placed.
  
  Cages for pet rabbits can be simple affairs, but they must be sturdy. Rabbits have marvelous teeth. They can rapidly destroy wood. Also, wood absorbs smells which can quickly become offensive. A good cage is made of 1 inch by 2 inch galvanized wire (usually #16) and 1/2 inch by 1 inch floors. Fiberglass or metal pans are held in place with a wire sub-floor. Wood shavings, kitty litter or ground corn cobs work nicely for litter absorption in the bottom pan. A metal shield about 2 inches high around the outside of the cage helps deflect rabbit “spray.” If such shields aren’t available, a visit to a sheet metal shop might help.
  
  Hardware cloth generally isn’t sturdy enough for long-term use. The wire is too light for the stress of a rambunctious rabbit.
  
  Cage arrangements are extremely varied, from single to multi-decked. Again, it is advisable to visit several operations with different arrangements before deciding what will work best for you. Every system has advantages and disadvantages; these should be carefully considered before making a final choice.
  
  Cages may be purchased commercially or constructed by an individual. Suggested cage dimensions, for intermediate breeds, are:

  • Doe Cages - 30 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches.

  • Buck Cages - 24 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches.

  • Growing Cages - 30 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches – capacity 10 to 15 fryers to market. In extremely hot weather place only 10 to 12 fryers per cage.

  • Isolation Cages - 24 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches - Use for isolating sick or newly purchased animals. Keep separate from main housing.

  • Nest Boxes - 12 inches by 18 inches by 8 inches - Can be made of plywood, masonite, or wire with a liner.

CAGE MATERIAL
Tops and sides - 1 inch by 2 inch welded wire. You may want to use 1/2 inch by 1 inch “baby-saver” wire on the sides 4 inches high.

Bottoms - 5/8 inches by 1 inch or 1/2 inch by 1 inch welded wire.

Doors - 16 inches by 13 inches latched over 14 inches by 12 inches opening. Nest boxes come in metal versions with removable bottoms. These can be purchased from the same places as cages. Many breeders make their own nest boxes from scrap wood. The front part should be eight to 12 inches wide, depending on the size of the doe. Holes should be drilled in the bottom for drainage.

SELF-FEEDERS
There are many types available. The most important factor is that they be low enough to allow small bunnies to feed. The feeder lip should be no higher than three to four inches above the floor.

Outside metal feeders are becoming more common. They fill from the outside of the cage, saving time and inside space. Two types are available. The more common “J” style that slips through a hole cut in the side wire of the cage, and the two-part style that doesn’t require a hole cut in the wire. Rabbits are less able to scratch food out of such feeders. Water bottles are a good investment as they save time, effort and cage space. Less water is wasted as there is no splashing.

Experience indicates that automatic watering systems with nipple or “dew-drop” outlets are worthwhile and should be provided in each cage. Located 6 inches above the floor, bunnies can use them early. Incorporating a pressure reducing valve will prevent waste and wet floors. It is advantageous to use an automotive water proportioner which allows you to add medications and waterline cleaners to the system.

BUILDINGS
Converted poultry buildings, garages or utility sheds work well for rabbits. If the breeder wants, droppings can be allowed to fall to the floor for removal several times a year. If desired, cages with metal pans can be used and cleaned weekly.

Plywood roofs can be covered with rolled roofing. Tarps or heavy plastic may be hung for winter protection. Be sure to have the roof extended far enough over the edge to provide shade from the sun. Rabbits must be able to get out of the sun!

Good ventilation is critical for the health and productivity of the rabbits. The ventilating system should provide eight to 10 air changes per hour, without subjecting the rabbits to undesirable drafts. This can be accomplished with windows, adjustable panels and curtains, fans and open-sided buildings. In some areas of the country, heaters will be necessary during extremely cold weather.

As is the case with many animals, day length influences reproductive activity in the rabbit. Lighting should be maintained at a constant level for 10 to 14 hours a day, and be strong enough to maintain reproductive activity.

SCALE
It is essential that weights be taken periodically in order to accurately evaluate performances.

For More Information contact AN_RabbitHelp@adm.com
ADM Alliance Nutrition, Inc. 1000 North 30th Street P.O. Box C1 Quincy, IL USA 62305-3155